Sunday, April 3, 2011

RTW Tailoring Sewalong #3 - Pattern Amendments - Lining

Today is the day we make the lining for our jacket.  I've noticed a lot of patterns don't even have linings, or  only the front is lined, so knowing how to make a full lining is a really useful thing to know.  Let's get straight into it...

Back Lining:
  • Trace around your Back pattern, include markings:
  • Trace the Back Neck Facing, and add 2cm to this line for seam allowances (red):
  • If your Back is cut on the fold like mine is, add a 1cm CB seam (red).  If your Back has a CB seam already - great!
  • Add an extra 2cm to the CB as shown, from just below the waistline upwards - this is the allowance for a CB pleat which will be incorporated into the seam:
  • At the hem, the lining cut line is the same as the hem foldline:
  • Cut out your lining, notch the CB neck, and label it - back lining, cut 1 pair, grainline:


Side Back Lining:
  • Trace around Side Back
  • At the hem the lining cutline equals the finished hem foldline (red)
  • Cut out and label:


Side Front/Body Lining:
  • As for Side Back Lining, any pocket markings can be omitted though:


Front Lining:
  • Rescue the piece that was off-cut when you made the Front Facing:
  • Add to the finished hem length where it will join the Front Facing, so their lengths match:
  • On my piece I closed out the dart:  
  • Normally I would proceed to slash and spread and add some ease to the lining/facing seam, but because my coat is double breasted and this piece is so skinny and ridiculous looking, I will merge it with the Side Front Lining instead:
  • I stuck them together, overlapping the side front seam allowance 2cm.  I slashed horizontally in a couple of places to get it to fit.  At each slash the pattern overlapped about 5mm along the seam edge - I need to recover this or the lining will be too short for the facing.
  • At the same time I also need to slash and spread to include some ease in the lining along this seam, so I do both at once:
  • The ease will be distributed 5mm between the shoulder and first notch at the bust, and 5mm between first and second notch at waist.  
  • Now you need to add the seam allowance to the seam, not forgetting to walk your pattern and checking the ease between the notches:
  • And I levelled the hem because we don't want a kinky hem, you can place a notch there to match the side front seam of the shell if you are bagging out:
  • The finished pieces:

Sleeve Lining:
  • For a one-piece sleeve lining trace around the Sleeve pattern, and mark the lining hem cut line.  As these two edges will be sewn together, they must be the same length, so taper the lower 2cm of the lining out to match (red):
  • At the underarm, mark a line 2cm above the edge (red):
  • Please excuse the condition of my pattern piece - the cat came inside with muddy feet and decided my sleeve pattern was the place to be!  With your sleeve aligned on top, pivot it from the sleeve shoulder notch to meet the 2cm mark:
  • Trace around this edge, then pivot the sleeve at the underarm to bring the sleeve seams into alignment at the wrist:
  • Repeat for the other side.  The elbow notches will actually remain at the same level as those on the shell, not where I have marked them in red:


Top and Under Sleeve Linings:

If you have a two-piece sleeve, the process is essentially the same - add 2cm to the underarm, and pivot the sleeves to this level, adding to the foreseam as necessary.  Remember to walk the foreseam:


That's it - your lining and complete pattern is done!
...except for the pockets - which I'll cover another day...

Soon we will be cutting, so sharpen those shears!

And if you are feeling like a little light relief after all that, try viewing Air New Zealand's latest safety video ;)


13 comments:

  1. Sherry, your info is fantastic, what a lot of prep you have done.
    and thanks for the laugh this morning when I watched that video, hilarious.

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  2. Alright! I finished off the pattern-making day by swapping out my rotary cutter blades- fresh one into the fabric-cutter and old fabric blade into the paper-cutter. My paper cutting blade has never seen this much action in 3 days!
    One note: as someone used to working with 5/8"inch SAs, I noticed that I mark my pattern-notches fairly deep. When I get to cutting fabric I must restrain myself from snipping through the 3/8" SA and over the stitching line!
    thanks, Sherry!

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  3. Hi Sherry - am up to copying the lining and very grateful you've covered lining as my pattern only has the back and front lining, no sleeves - doesn't make sense to me. Anyway, will copy them all using your method - thanks for all your hard work and am really enjoying the journey.

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  4. Hi, Sherry, two questions:

    One, I'm a bit confused about how to pivot the under sleeve to spread it properly, when I try to do it the same way as you show for the one piece sleeve it ends up shorter as well as wider, which seems wrong...

    Two, I'm thinking for my pattern I should leave the skirt pleats out of the lining, is that right?

    Thank you again so much... So many little details I wouldn't think of on my own.

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  5. ~Kimbersew - great point - notches only need to be 3-4mm deep!
    ~Tanit-Isis - I'd leave the pleats out too, as long as there is enough width at the lining hem to walk easily. If not, a little bit of flare there won't hurt. For the u/sleeve, the pivot point is at the top end of the hindseam, and swing the foreseam up and out - hope that make sense!

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  6. Thank you, Sherry. :)

    After your safety video chuckle, a hard game of hockey last night, and a good sleep, my happy endorphines are back, and everything is making sense.... I managed to spend the day making headway.

    My scissors and blade are ready for action.

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  7. Thanks, Sherry---that makes much more sense than what I was trying! I was thinking of narrowing the top of the de-pleated sections but keeping the hems the same width (so having a more flaring piece) if that makes sense ;).

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  8. I'm up to speed now, it's kind of exciting to follow instructions without knowing exactly why, just knowing it'll turn out. :) I simplified my front lining piece, if you wouldn't mind having a quick look at it on flickr sometime before cutting to give it the thumbs up I'd feel safer.

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  10. well I guess I am some place between posts 3 and 4. I am on my second muslin, which is a first for me... a lot of firsts for me...I am using a Burda 3/11 # 121,and am expecting to use turquoise raw silk...have not sewn clothes in 20yrs. Thanks for the excellent instructions. This is lots of work and fun.

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  11. I'm making the lining pattern pieces today and am wondering about darts --- it appears that you've eliminated the darts from the lining pieces. I don't see any reference to darting the lining so perhaps I've overlooked something. My coat has shoulder darts and vertical darting at the waistline (front and back). Sherry, what would you recommend regarding darts in lining?

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  12. Ginny, I'm in the same place you are. Hoping to get caught up this weekend. I almost panicked when I read "Rescue the piece that was off-cut when you made the Front Facing:" I thought I had used it on another project. Whew!

    Great instructions Sherry. I don't think I've ever done this much work BEFORE cutting the material. :)

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  13. That video is too funny. I think we should have it on the US flights. I couldn't help doing the pony with them.

    Seems like I still have some of those tights and leotards in my bottom drawer. Oops! Telling my age, aren't I? LOL

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Thanks so much for taking the time to comment! I really enjoy hearing your thoughts and feedback every time I post!